Lipstick by Peggy Scholberg

“Victory Red” and “Montezuma Red” Lipstick

It’s been said: “A woman will spend her last dollar on a tube of lipstick.”

This black and white photo (left) was a full-page advertisement in the Saturday Evening Post March 13, 1943, displaying “Victory Red,” their new lipstick. “Montezuma Red,” was also developed by Elizabeth Arden, a bold shade that matched the red piping on female dress uniforms.

During WWII lipstick sales skyrocketed, emerging as an essential wartime commodity rather than a luxury item. In 2001 the Estée Lauder Companies used the term “The Lipstick Effect.” People will buy small luxury goods, like premium lipstick, instead of expensive items, during hard financial times.

Early in WWII, the United States attempted restricting cosmetics manufacturing to save on raw materials. However, the decision was quickly reversed after it was determined that makeup was crucial for maintaining a sense of normalcy. Lipstick would be kept in production. In the United Kingdom, while cosmetics were rationed, Winston Churchill argued that lipstick should be exempt, as it was vital for civilian morale.

Apparently, Adolf Hitler hated red lipstick and would not allow any woman around him to wear it. Red lipstick became a symbol of defiance, as it was in opposition to the beauty standards of German women.

Elizabeth Arden created an official makeup kit during WWII, developed by the U.S. Marine Corps Women’s Reserve. Revlon manufactured supplies and makeup for the United States Army, and received the Army-Navy "E" Award for Excellence in 1944. For lipstick production, they stopped using traditional metal cases to conserve metal for the war.

Several cosmetic companies used war themes for their lipstick lines. “Regimental Red“ was created by Helena Rubinstein with a bold red hue. “Crimson Glory” was developed by Dorothy Gray using a deep classic patriotic red. Other themes included “Fighting Red” and “Jeep Red” and “Commando Red” for bright durable formulations.

Girls in a World at War provides a variety of insights about what it was like to be a woman serving in the military. Read about what the Army had to say about how much lipstick could be taken overseas.

Excerpt from Girls in a World at War:

They returned to the day room just as Kilmer’s head nurse rapped for attention.

“The men are allowed, in addition to things on their lists, one personal item each. The Army didn’t want to get involved in an argument as to whether nail polish or lipstick is a necessity or a luxury. I think they like to see their women feminine, but aren’t willing to declare it a necessity. You are to take a six-month supply of everything necessary. And they have no idea how much lipstick will last six months. So, they look the other way and leave these matters to me, a woman.

“Nurses are respected. The closer the shooting, the more nurses are respected. But I forget, you’re not nurses.” She shook her head again, sadly. “Well, medical specialists are appreciated. The men will welcome you. But you would be resented if you demand too much special consideration. After all, they have a war to fight, and can’t be stopping to bother with you. The Army will give you the best, warmest quarters to live in. The best is sometimes a tent, so you must have warm sleeping bags. You’ll have the best available transportation, but the best is usually the back of a truck, and you’ll need warm clothes. The men will carry your footlockers and bedrolls, and carry them willingly. But gallantry would weaken if your luggage were too heavy, so do not fill your footlockers with too many books or bottles.”

Read on in the book to find out how lipstick was used to dress up for a visit to the famous and elegant Parisian Opera House.

Girls in a World at War by Peggy Scholberg is available online wherever books are sold.